Hi everyone,
It's been ages, I know! Internet has been expensive and difficult to find lately, but I plan on catching everything (blog, email, photos, facebook) up in the UK. And we'll be arriving there in just a couple of days now...
We were completely knackered after the last leg of our safari. Kruger Park was good, but probably not as good as Namibia (which was a surprise). There were only four of us on the tour, with some different guides, so it felt like a very different tour than the Cape Town to Vic Falls route. We found ourselves missing everybody (but the extra space was lovely, I have to say).
We arrived in Joburg and literally did nothing for two days. We didn't even leave the compound. Finally, we took a taxi to Soweto Backpackers yesterday and have had a much better time. The people are so inspiring, and the spirit is contagious.
We fly tomorrow!
Love,
Ames
26 March 2010
Windhoek-->Trans-Kalahari Highway-->Maun-->Okavango Delta-->Maun-->Chobe National Park-->Vic Falls
Hello from Zimbabwe!
We're here in Vic Falls and are still having fun. Once again we've been travelling around like mad, but we've had today to ourselves and are catching up on internet and laundry.
Botswana was nice. We spent two nights in the wilds of the Okavango Delta with nothing but a bush toilet--it was definitely an experience. There wasn't much game around, which was a bummer. The sunset cruise in Chobe National Park was better though (lots of hippos!), and funnily enough we were on the same boat as I took in 2006.
The falls on the Zim side are much longer and are very full at the moment. We were told it was unusual for there to be so much water at this time of year. In fact, even white water rafting is cancelled for the time being--we were crushed! Ah well.
Our walk by the falls yesterday left us completely soaked to the bone. A rain storm moved in to add to the water vapor, and it looked like we had taken baths in our clothes. The pictures are funny!
I'll blog again from Joburg in two days.
Love,
Ames
We're here in Vic Falls and are still having fun. Once again we've been travelling around like mad, but we've had today to ourselves and are catching up on internet and laundry.
Botswana was nice. We spent two nights in the wilds of the Okavango Delta with nothing but a bush toilet--it was definitely an experience. There wasn't much game around, which was a bummer. The sunset cruise in Chobe National Park was better though (lots of hippos!), and funnily enough we were on the same boat as I took in 2006.
The falls on the Zim side are much longer and are very full at the moment. We were told it was unusual for there to be so much water at this time of year. In fact, even white water rafting is cancelled for the time being--we were crushed! Ah well.
Our walk by the falls yesterday left us completely soaked to the bone. A rain storm moved in to add to the water vapor, and it looked like we had taken baths in our clothes. The pictures are funny!
I'll blog again from Joburg in two days.
Love,
Ames
19 March 2010
Swakopmund--->Spitzkoppe--->Etosha National Park--->Windhoek
Hi everyone,
We have been extremely busy again, and haven't spent more than one night in a place since Swakopmund.
Mama is a bit crowded now, and the new people are OLD (pipes and knitting and complaining about loud music), but we're still having a good time.
Highlights: sleeping under the stars in Spitzkoppe with bats flying over our heads, game driving in Etosha National Park, and going out for another dinner here in Windhoek. I had the kudu and Rory had ostrich, zebra, and oryx. All were very tasty, and we washed it down with quite a lot of beer.
Other tidbits: our tent was flipped over by a baboon while we were away at dinner, I woke up covered in tiny ants, and we had lions surround Mama at one point. Oh, and Larium is messing with our heads a little--but we'll survive.
Today we head into Botwana. This is the last time I'll have internet for quite some time, but I least I got some photos up.
Love,
Ames
We have been extremely busy again, and haven't spent more than one night in a place since Swakopmund.
Mama is a bit crowded now, and the new people are OLD (pipes and knitting and complaining about loud music), but we're still having a good time.
Highlights: sleeping under the stars in Spitzkoppe with bats flying over our heads, game driving in Etosha National Park, and going out for another dinner here in Windhoek. I had the kudu and Rory had ostrich, zebra, and oryx. All were very tasty, and we washed it down with quite a lot of beer.
Other tidbits: our tent was flipped over by a baboon while we were away at dinner, I woke up covered in tiny ants, and we had lions surround Mama at one point. Oh, and Larium is messing with our heads a little--but we'll survive.
Today we head into Botwana. This is the last time I'll have internet for quite some time, but I least I got some photos up.
Love,
13 March 2010
Swakopmund ctd.
Hi everyone,
We're still here in Swakopmund getting caught up on laundry and internet. One of the tour members brought a laptop, so we're using free internet for over an hour--a real treat these days!
I thought I should say a bit more about what we're up to. It's an 'overland' safari, which means we go everywhere in our vehicle. There are all sorts of compartments and lockers for our bags, valuables, tents, and even a portable kitchen that pops out of the side. Our guide's name is Pilele, and he is from Zimbabwe. We also have a trainee guide who is from South Africa, and we've had some good chats--turns out he was homeless in Florida just a few years ago. Our cook, Nika, is also from Zimbabwe and I swear he has magical powers. He makes delicious foods out of few ingredients and very little space in 'Mama'. We've been eating well, which is good because it's a very active tour.
The group is an interesting mix: 4 Americans, 4 Germans, 3 Koreans, a Belgian, a Dutchman, and Rory. We'll pick up a few more people here in Swakopmund before we make our way eastwards (so 'Mama' might get a bit cramped). Everyone is kind and likes a good laugh, so the evenings are good fun. Everyone has a few beers and relaxes together.
We travel between five and eight hours everyday. It's bumpy, but still comfortable most of the time. I haven't read or listened to music at all because the views are so astounding. The only complaint I have at this point was the heat on a few of our early stops. On the worst day, it was 104 degrees IN THE SHADE. In the sun it was more like 112. We don't have air conditioning.
So the sea breeze is refreshing here, and we also get two nights in dorms. One of the girls whose tour finishes here just offloaded a bunch of unneeded clothing on me, which I'm very excited about. Nearly everything I brought with me is ruined in some way (usually holes from getting washed so much).
We had dinner out last night, and I had a springbok calzone. Rory had the game burger (we don't know what animals that might have included). Both were huge and we didn't come close to finishing. Zebra was on the menu, and apparently it was good. Rory and I thought it was too close to eating horse. We also had four beers apiece--it was a bit of a party.
I have so many photos I want to share, but getting them uploaded is a problem. I'll try to post the highlights every week and then post loads once we get to the UK.
That's it for now, a small chance of photos later on,
Ames
We're still here in Swakopmund getting caught up on laundry and internet. One of the tour members brought a laptop, so we're using free internet for over an hour--a real treat these days!
I thought I should say a bit more about what we're up to. It's an 'overland' safari, which means we go everywhere in our vehicle. There are all sorts of compartments and lockers for our bags, valuables, tents, and even a portable kitchen that pops out of the side. Our guide's name is Pilele, and he is from Zimbabwe. We also have a trainee guide who is from South Africa, and we've had some good chats--turns out he was homeless in Florida just a few years ago. Our cook, Nika, is also from Zimbabwe and I swear he has magical powers. He makes delicious foods out of few ingredients and very little space in 'Mama'. We've been eating well, which is good because it's a very active tour.
The group is an interesting mix: 4 Americans, 4 Germans, 3 Koreans, a Belgian, a Dutchman, and Rory. We'll pick up a few more people here in Swakopmund before we make our way eastwards (so 'Mama' might get a bit cramped). Everyone is kind and likes a good laugh, so the evenings are good fun. Everyone has a few beers and relaxes together.
We travel between five and eight hours everyday. It's bumpy, but still comfortable most of the time. I haven't read or listened to music at all because the views are so astounding. The only complaint I have at this point was the heat on a few of our early stops. On the worst day, it was 104 degrees IN THE SHADE. In the sun it was more like 112. We don't have air conditioning.
So the sea breeze is refreshing here, and we also get two nights in dorms. One of the girls whose tour finishes here just offloaded a bunch of unneeded clothing on me, which I'm very excited about. Nearly everything I brought with me is ruined in some way (usually holes from getting washed so much).
We had dinner out last night, and I had a springbok calzone. Rory had the game burger (we don't know what animals that might have included). Both were huge and we didn't come close to finishing. Zebra was on the menu, and apparently it was good. Rory and I thought it was too close to eating horse. We also had four beers apiece--it was a bit of a party.
I have so many photos I want to share, but getting them uploaded is a problem. I'll try to post the highlights every week and then post loads once we get to the UK.
That's it for now, a small chance of photos later on,
Ames
12 March 2010
Cape Town--->Springbok--->Soussevlei--->Swakupmund
Hi everyone,
We are having a great time on our safari. The group is fun, and the places we've been have been stunning. We've gone on nature hikes, eaten under the stars, saw the second biggest canyon in the world, hung out in the desert, climbed a massive sand dune, spotted wildlife from 'Mama' (our vehicle), and slept with the night sky visible through the door of our tent.
We're in Swakupmund now, which is near the Skeleton Coast of Namibia. I consider Namibia to be one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited--the desert views just go on forever, and are actually quite variable. And being a former German colony, the beer is pure and delicious.
We'll be here for another day or so, and then head eastwards towards Botswana. If the tour continues the way it has, it will end of being a really memorable and special experience.
There is much to say, but not much time. And the only internet cafe here doesn't have Skype! So I'll have to leave it here, until tomorrow.
Love,
Ames
06 March 2010
Stellenbosch--->Cape Town
Hi everyone,
We leave on our big adventure in a few minutes. We'll be spending 26 days doing a big trek through Namibia, Botswana, Vic Falls, and the other side of South Africa. I don't think we'll have much internet, but I'll do my very best to update this.
So excited!
Love,
Ames
We leave on our big adventure in a few minutes. We'll be spending 26 days doing a big trek through Namibia, Botswana, Vic Falls, and the other side of South Africa. I don't think we'll have much internet, but I'll do my very best to update this.
So excited!
Love,
Ames
04 March 2010
Cape Town-->Muizenberg-->Stellenbosch
Hi everyone,
Greetings from the Cape's famous Winelands! Tomorrow we head out on a tour (and intend to try plenty of wine).
We've been busy again. After our days at Table Mountain and the Bo Kaap in Cape Town, we caught the train and headed further down the Cape to the surfing town of Muizenberg. We stayed at an absolutely lovely place called the Amberley Lodge, and then couldn't tear ourselves away. The cool breeze and the cheap room were just too enticing, and we stayed for three nights. The highlight of the stay were the African penguins (pictures to come).
Today we left and headed here to Stellenbosch, an old university town. As for what's next, we're considering a 26-day overland safari through Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and back to SA. We'll keep you posted.
Getting pictures up here has been a problem, but watch this space. I just might figure it out!
Love,
Ames
Greetings from the Cape's famous Winelands! Tomorrow we head out on a tour (and intend to try plenty of wine).
We've been busy again. After our days at Table Mountain and the Bo Kaap in Cape Town, we caught the train and headed further down the Cape to the surfing town of Muizenberg. We stayed at an absolutely lovely place called the Amberley Lodge, and then couldn't tear ourselves away. The cool breeze and the cheap room were just too enticing, and we stayed for three nights. The highlight of the stay were the African penguins (pictures to come).
Today we left and headed here to Stellenbosch, an old university town. As for what's next, we're considering a 26-day overland safari through Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and back to SA. We'll keep you posted.
Getting pictures up here has been a problem, but watch this space. I just might figure it out!
Love,
Ames
28 February 2010
Cape Town ctd.
We had a much better day today. Here are a few piccies, with some really amazing ones to come tomorrow.
27 February 2010
Singapore--->Cape Town
Hi everyone,
We've been in Cape Town for three days now. The first day we were too jetlagged to do much, and the next two nights were made difficult by the dormmate-from-Hell. Said dormmate was kicked out yesterday, so we were able to get some sleep last night. Now the problem is just the heat--it's as hot here as it was in Bangkok, and I just wasn't prepared for that. Plus, nowhere here has fans or airconditioning, so it's been uncomfortable.
The city is beautiful to look at, but a little dodgy to walk around in. I've stashed my wedding ring with my money belt in our safe--I just didn't want to risk it. Table Mountain is stunning, and the waterfront is modern, but there are a lot of very poor people here too. I'm not quite sure what to think of the place yet.
We've been trying to decide which direction to head, so that we can buy our last air tickets. Staying on budget here is tough, so we were looking at balancing four weeks here with two weeks in Egypt (where it's much cheaper). But Rory and I can't seem to decide on anything, and I'm tired of arguing. The only thing that seems clear is that this trip is a crappy honeymoon. Staying in dorms, in places where it's too hot to hold hands, is not my idea of romantic.
I haven't taken many photos (and when I have, I've used Rory's old camera so the pictures aren't great). I don't feel safe carrying around our nice camera. I might post some later, we'll see.
Love,
Ames
We've been in Cape Town for three days now. The first day we were too jetlagged to do much, and the next two nights were made difficult by the dormmate-from-Hell. Said dormmate was kicked out yesterday, so we were able to get some sleep last night. Now the problem is just the heat--it's as hot here as it was in Bangkok, and I just wasn't prepared for that. Plus, nowhere here has fans or airconditioning, so it's been uncomfortable.
The city is beautiful to look at, but a little dodgy to walk around in. I've stashed my wedding ring with my money belt in our safe--I just didn't want to risk it. Table Mountain is stunning, and the waterfront is modern, but there are a lot of very poor people here too. I'm not quite sure what to think of the place yet.
We've been trying to decide which direction to head, so that we can buy our last air tickets. Staying on budget here is tough, so we were looking at balancing four weeks here with two weeks in Egypt (where it's much cheaper). But Rory and I can't seem to decide on anything, and I'm tired of arguing. The only thing that seems clear is that this trip is a crappy honeymoon. Staying in dorms, in places where it's too hot to hold hands, is not my idea of romantic.
I haven't taken many photos (and when I have, I've used Rory's old camera so the pictures aren't great). I don't feel safe carrying around our nice camera. I might post some later, we'll see.
Love,
Ames
23 February 2010
Bangkok--->Singapore
Our one day in Bangkok ended up being a bit of a dud. We traveled all the way across town on the Skytrain so that we could go to a rooftop bar for a drink at sunset--sounds lovely, right? Except our guidebook forgot to mention there is a strict dress code. So strict, in fact, that nobody in our elevator (7 people) were admitted. Then we had a cheap meal elsewhere, and went back to our hotel.
We got up this morning and left for the airport at 5:45am. We drove about ten minutes, and then our cab hit a motorcycle as we entered an intersection--nearly head on. We stopped after we hit them, and then the car behind us smashed into the back of us. Behind them was a bus--and things could have been a bit more serious if they had rear-ended us instead. We were relieved not to be hurt, and also relieved that they could still remove our bags from the smashed-up trunk. The guys on the motorcycle weren't so lucky--they were hurt, but limped away, leaving bits of motorcycle behind them. I think they were drunk--the accident was definitely their fault. I felt terrible for our cab driver, but the police seemed decent, and they found us a new cab within a couple of minutes.
Then, as we were on our way again, we thought we'd forgotten our new camera at the hotel. We almost turned around, which would have meant missing our flight. In the end we did the right thing--it was just tucked away in one of our backpacks. But I was still upset about the whole morning.
We're in Singapore now. It's still very hot here, but I also still like it. We have about six more hours until we head to the airport again. Singapore Airlines were nice enough to check in our bags (12 hours early!). I'll write again from Cape Town.
Cheers,
Amy
21 February 2010
Ko Chang--->Bangkok
Hi again,
What a lovely week on Ko Chang. I wholeheartedly recommend KB resort for a relaxing holiday. Such luxury--and on a budget!
We didn't do a whole heck of a lot since I last wrote. We did rent a two-person kayak and rowed across to a little deserted island. The views were beautiful, and the beach there was great, but I don't have any pictures because we didn't want to risk drowning the camera. Otherwise, we read a lot (LOVED Margaret Atwood's The Blind Assassin) and spent a lot of time in the hammock/on the deck/on the beach.
Little Fruit Bat followed us to our new bungalow and acted as our bodyguard the rest of our stay. The staff said that she chooses people from time to time, and when that happens she is a dedicated watchdog. That was certainly true for us--she always seemed to know where we were. She also knew when we were leaving, though, and she got very upset. It broke my heart a little.
We returned to Bangkok yesterday, but to a completely different part of town. I don't particularly like it, but then again it's only until early tomorrow morning. Then it's off to the airport, and Singapore, and then South Africa.
So long Asia. On to the next leg of our adventure!
Love,
Ames
What a lovely week on Ko Chang. I wholeheartedly recommend KB resort for a relaxing holiday. Such luxury--and on a budget!
We didn't do a whole heck of a lot since I last wrote. We did rent a two-person kayak and rowed across to a little deserted island. The views were beautiful, and the beach there was great, but I don't have any pictures because we didn't want to risk drowning the camera. Otherwise, we read a lot (LOVED Margaret Atwood's The Blind Assassin) and spent a lot of time in the hammock/on the deck/on the beach.
Little Fruit Bat followed us to our new bungalow and acted as our bodyguard the rest of our stay. The staff said that she chooses people from time to time, and when that happens she is a dedicated watchdog. That was certainly true for us--she always seemed to know where we were. She also knew when we were leaving, though, and she got very upset. It broke my heart a little.
We returned to Bangkok yesterday, but to a completely different part of town. I don't particularly like it, but then again it's only until early tomorrow morning. Then it's off to the airport, and Singapore, and then South Africa.
So long Asia. On to the next leg of our adventure!
Love,
Ames
18 February 2010
17 February 2010
Vientiane--->Bangkok--->Trat--->Ko Chang
Hi everyone,
I apologise for taking so long to update this. The few times we've been on the internet, we've been busy researching places to stay both here on Ko Chang and also in Cape Town. Africa is approaching quickly, and we are a bit under-prepared.
We left Vientiane after one night and headed to Bangkok on the night bus. We were totally swindled by our hotel in Vientiane, and the bus was not as advertised. We paid 800 baht per person, and then found out we could have done it ourselves for about 500. We were promised dinner, movies, and a 6am arrival time on Khoa San--and then didn't stop for food until midnight (and it was terrible), the movies were in Thai only, and the bus dropped us off at 4.30am at the Northern Bus Terminal. It was pretty much a disaster.
So we got a taxi to Khao San, only to find out that everywhere was full and wouldn't be able to check us in until at least 11 (if they had rooms, which nobody was sure). We finally got a room after killing SEVEN hours around Khao San, and we were so exhausted and dispirited that we went straight to bed for a couple of hours.
After one night in Bangkok, we left for Trat in the morning. Trat is where the ferries leave from for the Eastern islands, and it was actually a pleasant little town in itself. The streets were leafy and quiet, and every window revealed families eating together, watching TV, or playing with their pets. We had some awesome curries at a local restaurant and then called it a night.
We caught the ferry to Ko Chang the next morning (which meant that we hadn't spent more than one night in a place for almost a full week). Our aim was to find somewhere nice, and then just stay put for six nights or so. We arrived on the island, took a taxi to our chosen beach (Kai Bae), and then started the hotel search. It wasn't easy. Everywhere was booked solid, and our options were looking depressing (dirty, smelly, windowless bungalows). It took us about two hours to stumble into KB resort, who did have one room available--and it was perfect. A lovely, wooden fan bangalow with tons of windows, set in beautiful gardens. We pounced on it, and then found out that a beautiful breakfast buffet was included, which made it easily within budget.
So we spent the first three nights in that bungalow, watching sunsets from a hammock, drinking beer on our private deck, and swimming in the sea and our gorgeous swimming pool (for about 31 US per night for both of us). Our luck nearly ran out, though, as the resort thought they were full again and nearly had to kick us out. We spent hours searching for another place yesterday with no luck, and we were wondering whether we might have to leave the island. Very luckily, they offered us a different family bungalow for a discounted rate for the next three nights--so we remain at our resort, which was a huge relief.
The best things about KB are the breakfasts and the resident dogs. The breakfasts are massive, and include tasty treats like pineapple samosas, banana pancakes, and omelets made to order. The dogs are always around, and are real characters. My favorite is one we call 'fruit bat' (because her face looks exactly like one). She has taken to sleeping on our porch--not on the ground, but actually on top of our patio table. She growls at other dogs if they come too close, but she's nothing but cuddly with us. It's been really fun to have a temporary dog.
So we have three more nights on Ko Chang, and then two more in Bangkok before we fly back to Singapore. I'll try and post some pictures this evening.
Love,
Ames
I apologise for taking so long to update this. The few times we've been on the internet, we've been busy researching places to stay both here on Ko Chang and also in Cape Town. Africa is approaching quickly, and we are a bit under-prepared.
We left Vientiane after one night and headed to Bangkok on the night bus. We were totally swindled by our hotel in Vientiane, and the bus was not as advertised. We paid 800 baht per person, and then found out we could have done it ourselves for about 500. We were promised dinner, movies, and a 6am arrival time on Khoa San--and then didn't stop for food until midnight (and it was terrible), the movies were in Thai only, and the bus dropped us off at 4.30am at the Northern Bus Terminal. It was pretty much a disaster.
So we got a taxi to Khao San, only to find out that everywhere was full and wouldn't be able to check us in until at least 11 (if they had rooms, which nobody was sure). We finally got a room after killing SEVEN hours around Khao San, and we were so exhausted and dispirited that we went straight to bed for a couple of hours.
After one night in Bangkok, we left for Trat in the morning. Trat is where the ferries leave from for the Eastern islands, and it was actually a pleasant little town in itself. The streets were leafy and quiet, and every window revealed families eating together, watching TV, or playing with their pets. We had some awesome curries at a local restaurant and then called it a night.
We caught the ferry to Ko Chang the next morning (which meant that we hadn't spent more than one night in a place for almost a full week). Our aim was to find somewhere nice, and then just stay put for six nights or so. We arrived on the island, took a taxi to our chosen beach (Kai Bae), and then started the hotel search. It wasn't easy. Everywhere was booked solid, and our options were looking depressing (dirty, smelly, windowless bungalows). It took us about two hours to stumble into KB resort, who did have one room available--and it was perfect. A lovely, wooden fan bangalow with tons of windows, set in beautiful gardens. We pounced on it, and then found out that a beautiful breakfast buffet was included, which made it easily within budget.
So we spent the first three nights in that bungalow, watching sunsets from a hammock, drinking beer on our private deck, and swimming in the sea and our gorgeous swimming pool (for about 31 US per night for both of us). Our luck nearly ran out, though, as the resort thought they were full again and nearly had to kick us out. We spent hours searching for another place yesterday with no luck, and we were wondering whether we might have to leave the island. Very luckily, they offered us a different family bungalow for a discounted rate for the next three nights--so we remain at our resort, which was a huge relief.
The best things about KB are the breakfasts and the resident dogs. The breakfasts are massive, and include tasty treats like pineapple samosas, banana pancakes, and omelets made to order. The dogs are always around, and are real characters. My favorite is one we call 'fruit bat' (because her face looks exactly like one). She has taken to sleeping on our porch--not on the ground, but actually on top of our patio table. She growls at other dogs if they come too close, but she's nothing but cuddly with us. It's been really fun to have a temporary dog.
So we have three more nights on Ko Chang, and then two more in Bangkok before we fly back to Singapore. I'll try and post some pictures this evening.
Love,
Ames
11 February 2010
Luang Prabang--->Vang Vieng--->Vientiane
So much travel again! We left Luang Prabang on a VIP bus to Vang Vieng, didn't like it there, and grabbed another bus to Vientiane. We arrived last night, and have now booked an overnight bus (shudder) for tonight. We'll end up in Bangkok at 6am tomorrow morning.
Our time is ticking down, so we're looking to spend a bit of time relaxing before we fly to Cape Town. Our new goal is to get to Ko Maak, but you never know. We sure don't!
I'll try to put up a few more pictures of Laos. It's been lovely here.
Love,
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