Rory and Amy's Latest Adventure

Vic Falls-->Joburg-->Kruger Park-->Joburg-->Soweto

2010-04-05T08:09:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

It's been ages, I know! Internet has been expensive and difficult to find lately, but I plan on catching everything (blog, email, photos, facebook) up in the UK. And we'll be arriving there in just a couple of days now...

We were completely knackered after the last leg of our safari. Kruger Park was good, but probably not as good as Namibia (which was a surprise). There were only four of us on the tour, with some different guides, so it felt like a very different tour than the Cape Town to Vic Falls route. We found ourselves missing everybody (but the extra space was lovely, I have to say).

We arrived in Joburg and literally did nothing for two days. We didn't even leave the compound. Finally, we took a taxi to Soweto Backpackers yesterday and have had a much better time. The people are so inspiring, and the spirit is contagious.

We fly tomorrow!

Love,
Ames

Windhoek-->Trans-Kalahari Highway-->Maun-->Okavango Delta-->Maun-->Chobe National Park-->Vic Falls

2010-03-26T02:53:00.000-07:00

Hello from Zimbabwe!

We're here in Vic Falls and are still having fun. Once again we've been travelling around like mad, but we've had today to ourselves and are catching up on internet and laundry.

Botswana was nice. We spent two nights in the wilds of the Okavango Delta with nothing but a bush toilet--it was definitely an experience. There wasn't much game around, which was a bummer. The sunset cruise in Chobe National Park was better though (lots of hippos!), and funnily enough we were on the same boat as I took in 2006.

The falls on the Zim side are much longer and are very full at the moment. We were told it was unusual for there to be so much water at this time of year. In fact, even white water rafting is cancelled for the time being--we were crushed! Ah well.

Our walk by the falls yesterday left us completely soaked to the bone. A rain storm moved in to add to the water vapor, and it looked like we had taken baths in our clothes. The pictures are funny!

I'll blog again from Joburg in two days.

Love,
Ames

Swakopmund--->Spitzkoppe--->Etosha National Park--->Windhoek

2010-03-19T00:00:00.000-07:00

Hi everyone,

We have been extremely busy again, and haven't spent more than one night in a place since Swakopmund.

Mama is a bit crowded now, and the new people are OLD (pipes and knitting and complaining about loud music), but we're still having a good time.

Highlights: sleeping under the stars in Spitzkoppe with bats flying over our heads, game driving in Etosha National Park, and going out for another dinner here in Windhoek. I had the kudu and Rory had ostrich, zebra, and oryx. All were very tasty, and we washed it down with quite a lot of beer.

Other tidbits: our tent was flipped over by a baboon while we were away at dinner, I woke up covered in tiny ants, and we had lions surround Mama at one point. Oh, and Larium is messing with our heads a little--but we'll survive.

Today we head into Botwana. This is the last time I'll have internet for quite some time, but I least I got some photos up.

Love,

Ames

Swakopmund ctd.

2010-03-13T01:30:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We're still here in Swakopmund getting caught up on laundry and internet. One of the tour members brought a laptop, so we're using free internet for over an hour--a real treat these days!

I thought I should say a bit more about what we're up to. It's an 'overland' safari, which means we go everywhere in our vehicle. There are all sorts of compartments and lockers for our bags, valuables, tents, and even a portable kitchen that pops out of the side. Our guide's name is Pilele, and he is from Zimbabwe. We also have a trainee guide who is from South Africa, and we've had some good chats--turns out he was homeless in Florida just a few years ago. Our cook, Nika, is also from Zimbabwe and I swear he has magical powers. He makes delicious foods out of few ingredients and very little space in 'Mama'. We've been eating well, which is good because it's a very active tour.

The group is an interesting mix: 4 Americans, 4 Germans, 3 Koreans, a Belgian, a Dutchman, and Rory. We'll pick up a few more people here in Swakopmund before we make our way eastwards (so 'Mama' might get a bit cramped). Everyone is kind and likes a good laugh, so the evenings are good fun. Everyone has a few beers and relaxes together.

We travel between five and eight hours everyday. It's bumpy, but still comfortable most of the time. I haven't read or listened to music at all because the views are so astounding. The only complaint I have at this point was the heat on a few of our early stops. On the worst day, it was 104 degrees IN THE SHADE. In the sun it was more like 112. We don't have air conditioning.

So the sea breeze is refreshing here, and we also get two nights in dorms. One of the girls whose tour finishes here just offloaded a bunch of unneeded clothing on me, which I'm very excited about. Nearly everything I brought with me is ruined in some way (usually holes from getting washed so much).

We had dinner out last night, and I had a springbok calzone. Rory had the game burger (we don't know what animals that might have included). Both were huge and we didn't come close to finishing. Zebra was on the menu, and apparently it was good. Rory and I thought it was too close to eating horse. We also had four beers apiece--it was a bit of a party.

I have so many photos I want to share, but getting them uploaded is a problem. I'll try to post the highlights every week and then post loads once we get to the UK.

That's it for now, a small chance of photos later on,
Ames

Cape Town--->Springbok--->Soussevlei--->Swakupmund

2010-03-12T06:54:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We are having a great time on our safari. The group is fun, and the places we've been have been stunning. We've gone on nature hikes, eaten under the stars, saw the second biggest canyon in the world, hung out in the desert, climbed a massive sand dune, spotted wildlife from 'Mama' (our vehicle), and slept with the night sky visible through the door of our tent.

We're in Swakupmund now, which is near the Skeleton Coast of Namibia. I consider Namibia to be one of the most beautiful places I've ever visited--the desert views just go on forever, and are actually quite variable. And being a former German colony, the beer is pure and delicious.

We'll be here for another day or so, and then head eastwards towards Botswana. If the tour continues the way it has, it will end of being a really memorable and special experience.

There is much to say, but not much time. And the only internet cafe here doesn't have Skype! So I'll have to leave it here, until tomorrow.

Love,
Ames

Stellenbosch--->Cape Town

2010-03-06T21:28:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We leave on our big adventure in a few minutes. We'll be spending 26 days doing a big trek through Namibia, Botswana, Vic Falls, and the other side of South Africa. I don't think we'll have much internet, but I'll do my very best to update this.

So excited!

Love,
Ames

Cape Town-->Muizenberg-->Stellenbosch

2010-03-04T10:35:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Greetings from the Cape's famous Winelands! Tomorrow we head out on a tour (and intend to try plenty of wine).

We've been busy again. After our days at Table Mountain and the Bo Kaap in Cape Town, we caught the train and headed further down the Cape to the surfing town of Muizenberg. We stayed at an absolutely lovely place called the Amberley Lodge, and then couldn't tear ourselves away. The cool breeze and the cheap room were just too enticing, and we stayed for three nights. The highlight of the stay were the African penguins (pictures to come).

Today we left and headed here to Stellenbosch, an old university town. As for what's next, we're considering a 26-day overland safari through Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and back to SA. We'll keep you posted.

Getting pictures up here has been a problem, but watch this space. I just might figure it out!

Love,
Ames

Cape Town ctd.

2010-02-28T10:13:00.000-08:00

We had a much better day today. Here are a few piccies, with some really amazing ones to come tomorrow.

Singapore--->Cape Town

2010-02-27T07:38:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We've been in Cape Town for three days now. The first day we were too jetlagged to do much, and the next two nights were made difficult by the dormmate-from-Hell. Said dormmate was kicked out yesterday, so we were able to get some sleep last night. Now the problem is just the heat--it's as hot here as it was in Bangkok, and I just wasn't prepared for that. Plus, nowhere here has fans or airconditioning, so it's been uncomfortable.

The city is beautiful to look at, but a little dodgy to walk around in. I've stashed my wedding ring with my money belt in our safe--I just didn't want to risk it. Table Mountain is stunning, and the waterfront is modern, but there are a lot of very poor people here too. I'm not quite sure what to think of the place yet.

We've been trying to decide which direction to head, so that we can buy our last air tickets. Staying on budget here is tough, so we were looking at balancing four weeks here with two weeks in Egypt (where it's much cheaper). But Rory and I can't seem to decide on anything, and I'm tired of arguing. The only thing that seems clear is that this trip is a crappy honeymoon. Staying in dorms, in places where it's too hot to hold hands, is not my idea of romantic.

I haven't taken many photos (and when I have, I've used Rory's old camera so the pictures aren't great). I don't feel safe carrying around our nice camera. I might post some later, we'll see.

Love,
Ames

Bangkok--->Singapore

2010-02-23T00:13:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Our one day in Bangkok ended up being a bit of a dud. We traveled all the way across town on the Skytrain so that we could go to a rooftop bar for a drink at sunset--sounds lovely, right? Except our guidebook forgot to mention there is a strict dress code. So strict, in fact, that nobody in our elevator (7 people) were admitted. Then we had a cheap meal elsewhere, and went back to our hotel.

We got up this morning and left for the airport at 5:45am. We drove about ten minutes, and then our cab hit a motorcycle as we entered an intersection--nearly head on. We stopped after we hit them, and then the car behind us smashed into the back of us. Behind them was a bus--and things could have been a bit more serious if they had rear-ended us instead. We were relieved not to be hurt, and also relieved that they could still remove our bags from the smashed-up trunk. The guys on the motorcycle weren't so lucky--they were hurt, but limped away, leaving bits of motorcycle behind them. I think they were drunk--the accident was definitely their fault. I felt terrible for our cab driver, but the police seemed decent, and they found us a new cab within a couple of minutes.

Then, as we were on our way again, we thought we'd forgotten our new camera at the hotel. We almost turned around, which would have meant missing our flight. In the end we did the right thing--it was just tucked away in one of our backpacks. But I was still upset about the whole morning.

We're in Singapore now. It's still very hot here, but I also still like it. We have about six more hours until we head to the airport again. Singapore Airlines were nice enough to check in our bags (12 hours early!). I'll write again from Cape Town.

Cheers,
Amy

Ko Chang--->Bangkok

2010-02-21T23:05:00.000-08:00

Hi again,

What a lovely week on Ko Chang. I wholeheartedly recommend KB resort for a relaxing holiday. Such luxury--and on a budget!

We didn't do a whole heck of a lot since I last wrote. We did rent a two-person kayak and rowed across to a little deserted island. The views were beautiful, and the beach there was great, but I don't have any pictures because we didn't want to risk drowning the camera. Otherwise, we read a lot (LOVED Margaret Atwood's The Blind Assassin) and spent a lot of time in the hammock/on the deck/on the beach.

Little Fruit Bat followed us to our new bungalow and acted as our bodyguard the rest of our stay. The staff said that she chooses people from time to time, and when that happens she is a dedicated watchdog. That was certainly true for us--she always seemed to know where we were. She also knew when we were leaving, though, and she got very upset. It broke my heart a little.

We returned to Bangkok yesterday, but to a completely different part of town. I don't particularly like it, but then again it's only until early tomorrow morning. Then it's off to the airport, and Singapore, and then South Africa.

So long Asia. On to the next leg of our adventure!

Love,
Ames

Ko Chang ctd.

2010-02-18T04:44:00.000-08:00

Here are some pictures!

Vientiane--->Bangkok--->Trat--->Ko Chang

2010-02-17T22:43:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

I apologise for taking so long to update this. The few times we've been on the internet, we've been busy researching places to stay both here on Ko Chang and also in Cape Town. Africa is approaching quickly, and we are a bit under-prepared.

We left Vientiane after one night and headed to Bangkok on the night bus. We were totally swindled by our hotel in Vientiane, and the bus was not as advertised. We paid 800 baht per person, and then found out we could have done it ourselves for about 500. We were promised dinner, movies, and a 6am arrival time on Khoa San--and then didn't stop for food until midnight (and it was terrible), the movies were in Thai only, and the bus dropped us off at 4.30am at the Northern Bus Terminal. It was pretty much a disaster.

So we got a taxi to Khao San, only to find out that everywhere was full and wouldn't be able to check us in until at least 11 (if they had rooms, which nobody was sure). We finally got a room after killing SEVEN hours around Khao San, and we were so exhausted and dispirited that we went straight to bed for a couple of hours.

After one night in Bangkok, we left for Trat in the morning. Trat is where the ferries leave from for the Eastern islands, and it was actually a pleasant little town in itself. The streets were leafy and quiet, and every window revealed families eating together, watching TV, or playing with their pets. We had some awesome curries at a local restaurant and then called it a night.

We caught the ferry to Ko Chang the next morning (which meant that we hadn't spent more than one night in a place for almost a full week). Our aim was to find somewhere nice, and then just stay put for six nights or so. We arrived on the island, took a taxi to our chosen beach (Kai Bae), and then started the hotel search. It wasn't easy. Everywhere was booked solid, and our options were looking depressing (dirty, smelly, windowless bungalows). It took us about two hours to stumble into KB resort, who did have one room available--and it was perfect. A lovely, wooden fan bangalow with tons of windows, set in beautiful gardens. We pounced on it, and then found out that a beautiful breakfast buffet was included, which made it easily within budget.

So we spent the first three nights in that bungalow, watching sunsets from a hammock, drinking beer on our private deck, and swimming in the sea and our gorgeous swimming pool (for about 31 US per night for both of us). Our luck nearly ran out, though, as the resort thought they were full again and nearly had to kick us out. We spent hours searching for another place yesterday with no luck, and we were wondering whether we might have to leave the island. Very luckily, they offered us a different family bungalow for a discounted rate for the next three nights--so we remain at our resort, which was a huge relief.

The best things about KB are the breakfasts and the resident dogs. The breakfasts are massive, and include tasty treats like pineapple samosas, banana pancakes, and omelets made to order. The dogs are always around, and are real characters. My favorite is one we call 'fruit bat' (because her face looks exactly like one). She has taken to sleeping on our porch--not on the ground, but actually on top of our patio table. She growls at other dogs if they come too close, but she's nothing but cuddly with us. It's been really fun to have a temporary dog.

So we have three more nights on Ko Chang, and then two more in Bangkok before we fly back to Singapore. I'll try and post some pictures this evening.

Love,
Ames

Luang Prabang--->Vang Vieng--->Vientiane

2010-02-11T22:58:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

So much travel again! We left Luang Prabang on a VIP bus to Vang Vieng, didn't like it there, and grabbed another bus to Vientiane. We arrived last night, and have now booked an overnight bus (shudder) for tonight. We'll end up in Bangkok at 6am tomorrow morning.

Our time is ticking down, so we're looking to spend a bit of time relaxing before we fly to Cape Town. Our new goal is to get to Ko Maak, but you never know. We sure don't!

I'll try to put up a few more pictures of Laos. It's been lovely here.

Love,

Ames

Luang Prabang ctd again

2010-02-09T00:24:00.000-08:00

Rory fixed the camera--yay Rory!

So here are a few photos of today's activities. We took a boat up the Mekong to a cave full of ancient Buddhas. Enjoy!

Luang Prabang ctd

2010-02-08T00:56:00.000-08:00

Luang Nam Tha--->Luang Prabang

2010-02-07T23:15:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

It's been ages since I've blogged, and that's because we've been busy bees. We finished our trek on my birthday--it was a pretty good trip, but didn't quite meet our expectations. For one, there is no wildlife. Laos is so poor that all of the animals are eaten as soon as they're spotted. I'm not complaining though, as Laos is still very friendly, safe, and attractive.

To celebrate my birthday, our entire trekking group (plus some Dutch travellers we met at the border) went out for Indian food and Beerlao. I haven't mentioned it before, but Beerlao is delicious--by far the best beer we've had so far. I had a lovely birthday.

We caught a public bus to Luang Prabang the next morning and spent the next ten hours crawling along the terrible main highway. The arduous journey was worth it though, as Luang Prabang is stunning. The entire town is a world heritage site, and it does feel timeless here. There are monks in their orange robes everywhere, and quiet French cafes, and the Mekong is always in the distance.

I'd love to share pictures with everyone, but our memory card has contracted a computer virus. We're not sure what this means, but for now I'm unable to view the photos we've taken. Bummer.

I'll write another update soon--I'm sure I'll think of more to say. A lot has happened!

Love,
Ames

Pai--->Chiang Mai--->Chiang Rai--->Chiang Kong--->Huay Xai--->Luang Nam Tha, Laos

2010-02-03T06:31:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We've been travelling a lot the last two days, and we have some busy times ahead too. Yesterday we were on the road for nearly 12 hours, and JUST crossed the border before it closed for the evening. Then this morning we caught an early bus and made it here to Luang Nam Tha.

The bus was awful. There was an intensely smelly Frenchman that actually made the Laos women riding with us physically ill (over and over and over again). Even I ended up on the side of the road at one point, but I couldn't make myself throw up. It was terrible. The road was also windy and rocky, so the combination was lethal.

The good news is that we've booked on to an overnight trek through the National Park here, so we leave early the next morning, hike to a waterfall and stay in a small village, and then hike back out again through the forest and rice paddies (on my birthday). I'm very excited.

So I won't be blogging again for several days. Cross your fingers that we see some wildlife tomorrow!

Love
Ames

Pai ctd.

2010-01-31T20:46:00.000-08:00

Hi again,

So we've booked our onward travel, and it's going to be a long slog! Our first bus leaves at 8.30am tomorrow, and then we have a connecting bus in Chiang Mai at around lunchtime. From there, it's another six hours to the Laos border, where we will stay for the night. Then it's up early the next morning, through the border checks, and on to Luang Nam Tha in northern Laos (where we should arrive around dinner time). So we have two full days of travel ahead of us.

Pai has been pleasant. We switched hotels and found a real bargain, so that's why we decided to stay here another night instead of heading to Chiang Mai. We've been reading in hammocks a lot, and planning out our remaining time in Asia. The time is flying, and we have a lot of ground to cover!

So I don't think I'll be blogging until we arrive in Luang Nam Tha. Goodbye Thailand--see you again in a couple of weeks!

Love,
Ames

Chiang Mai--->Pai

2010-01-30T20:41:00.000-08:00

Hi there,

Here we are in the hippified town of Pai. It's all dreadlocks, reggae, and baggy clothes here--even more so because there was a big reggae festival going on, plus there was a full moon.

It's nice here, but it's very touristy. I think we'll stay another night or two and then head to Laos. I'm craving a bit more adventure--but I have to say that the Western food and ease of travel has been appreciated.

We had our first Thai massages yesterday. I was stood on, elbowed, kicked, and punched...and it felt great! An hour was only about $5 US, so it was very well worth it.

Enjoy the photos!

Cheers,

Amy

Ayuthaya--->Chiang Mai

2010-01-28T19:53:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We're in Chiang Mai now, and liking it, but already planning our exit to Pai tomorrow. We'll have to return to Chiang Mai for another night anyways, so it's not a big deal. We'll take an early bus in the morning.

The overnight train was about 1000x better than last time, and our hotel here is lovely. We even spent the afternoon by the pool--felt like a holiday from our holiday! To top it off, we had some delicious Mexican food last night (with actual black beans...yum!). We also went to an enormous night bazaar last night, which we'll head for tonight too.

No pictures today, but I'll write more and post some in a couple of days from Pai.

Love,
Ames

Ayuthaya ctd.

2010-01-26T22:51:00.000-08:00

Hello again,

We're taking advantage of the ultra-cheap, air-conditioned internet cafe here in Ayuthaya. That means I've posted even more photos--I can't seem to stop!

We spent yesterday evening walking amongst the ruins and then stopping at an outdoor market for dinner. We split a whole fish that had been cooked on a rotisserie, and it was delicious. The meal came with all sorts of weird and wonderful sides and greens (and all for about $5 US dollars total).

Today we rented the bikes and hit the road. Traffic is rather slow-moving, and you can't really get lost because Ayuthaya is an island. The first temple we visited had an enormous bronze Buddha and also a green sandstone Buddha that is 1500 years old. The monk there gave us a blessing, showered us with holy water, and then gave us woven bracelets to wear.

We catch the train in about 5 hours. We have our bikes until then, so we might keep exploring--if the heat allows us to. The weather forecast is calling for temperatures over 100 degrees F for the next few days.

Love,
Ames

Bangkok--->Ayuthaya

2010-01-25T22:50:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Greetings from Ayuthaya, ancient capital of Thailand. We left the current capital, Bangkok, this morning and arrived just in time to find a hotel room and grab lunch.

Ayuthaya is famous for its ruins, as it was the capital in the 1700's. We'll stay here for just one night and cycle around the ruins and temples, and then catch another sleeper train tomorrow night and head to Chiang Mai.

Bangkok blew me away. The city is so exciting and there is so much to see--I can't wait to return in a few short weeks. We stayed near the backpacker ghetto of Khoa San Road and then took public transport to the Grand Palace, main temples, and downtown. My favorite part was the Reclining Buddha--it was absolutely massive! I was also impressed by the faith Thai people place in the famous Emerald Buddha. You couldn't help but be awed by it.

I'll blog again from Chiang Mai in a couple of days.

Love,
Ames

Bangkok continued

2010-01-24T19:55:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

So I love Bangkok. Here are a few photos of what we got up to yesterday, and I'll write a longer post soon.

Love,

Ames

Koh Lanta--->Trang--->Bangkok

2010-01-22T21:33:00.000-08:00

Sawadee kah! (or however you spell it)

Well, we escaped the beaches and took the sleeper train to Bangkok. I think that Lanta could have been nicer under better circumstances, but as it was, I was happy to move on.

We stayed two nights at our air-conditioned hotel--just long enough for Rory to recover. I ended up paying A LOT of money for a tuk-tuk to carry us and our stuff 200m or so, but it was still worth it. Rory was one sick puppy.

We were able to book a bus to Trang and connecting night train to Bangkok with only a day's notice, and we weren't swindled too badly either. Once in Trang, I ran into someone from high school--such a small world! So we had a good chat with them, a bit of food, and then took our place in second class.

As bad luck would have it, Rory and I were the beds closest to a set of broken doors. Those broken doors meant that the train was extremely loud--like pain the eardrums loud. And we were on the train for close to 16 hours. Rory was able to sleep some, but I only managed about an hour and a half, so I feel a bit zombie-like. On the plus side, Bangkok looks great and we managed to get a room at a nice hotel. I think we'll spend two or three nights here before continuing our move up north.

I might have more pictures to post tomorrow.

Love,
Ames

Singapore--->Phuket--->Ko Phi Phi--->Ko Lanta

2010-01-19T18:55:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone

It's been awhile--four days now? Anyways, we've been moving around a lot and not finding time to put pictures up or blog. We spent one night in Phuket, took the ferry early the next morning to Ko Phi Phi, spent two nights there, and then took a ferry to Ko Lanta yesterday. I'm not sure how long we'll stay--we'll leave as soon as Rory feels well enough for the ferry/train to Bangkok.

I can't say I've had much fun. Phuket was a poophole, Ko Phi Phi was a circus, and now we've had a challenging time on Ko Lanta too. Rory had very bad food poisoning last night, and we also had bed bugs. We're moving hotels today, but that won't change the crazy heat and the fact that there are tiny stinging jellyfish in the water. Even changing hotels in an hour will be difficult, as Rory can barely stand at the moment. We need air-con so that Rory can recover, even though our budget wouldn't normally stretch to that.

So, no photos yet, and I don't know if there will be until Bangkok. Oh, and one more thing: I hate Thai toilets.

Love,
Amy

Singapore: one more time

2010-01-15T19:26:00.000-08:00

Hi there,

We've come to the end of our first stint in Singapore. Our flight to Phuket, Thailand is this evening and I'm very excited for beaches and Thai food! But I also really liked Singapore and am looking forward to returning here in a little less than six weeks.

We hit Chinatown and the Arab District yesterday, and both were atmospheric and exciting. I've included some pictures of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown and also smoking the shisha on Arab Street. Despite the intense heat and humidity and jetlag, I had a great day.

We met a lovely German woman who works with primate conservation in Vietnam. She works with an endangered monkey on a small island--only 70 animals left--and she's in Singapore to present her case at the Asia for Animals conference. She gave me a card and told me they are looking for someone in Cambodia--bad timing, but very cool none-the-less. It's fantastic to know what jobs are out there.

I'll blog again from Thailand!

Love,
Ames

Singapore: pictures from new camera

2010-01-14T17:28:00.000-08:00

Enjoy!

Love,

Ames

Singapore ctd.

2010-01-14T04:08:00.000-08:00

Hello again,

We had a great day here in Singapore. I can't be sure whether my expectations were low to begin with, but regardless, this city has exceeded my expectations. I'm really enjoying myself here.

Little India is awesome--all saris, spices, temples, and market stalls. We walked through the area to get to a 6-story mall containing nothing but electronics. We were looking to buy our camera, and after getting prices from about 20 stores, we bought a Lumix TZ-7. I'm not sure if we bartered hard enough, but we still saved $200 off of what the department stores here (and in New Zealand) were selling it for. From now on our photos should be crisp, clear, and gorgeous!

We also walked to Orchard Road, the famous shopping avenue. It was massive, and the scale reminded me of the Las Vegas strip. I liked the quieter, out-of-the-way places here much better. And the MRT (subway) is efficient and dirt cheap.

Other tidbits:
1. Rory broke his glasses, but he is coping and plans to try to go without them until we get settled again.
2. We got very little sleep last night in our hostel, but things are looking up for tonight because we've switched to bottom bunks. Last night I had a bit of an argument with a girl at 3am--she decided she wanted to turn the air-conditioning OFF in our tiny windowless room.
3. We went to the same Indian food court (the 'Hi-Five') tonight and stuffed ourselves with tandoori chicken and spinach curry (along with dahl and naans again). Again, it was delicious.

Hope you enjoy the photos--they don't really capture the scale, but at least you can get a feel for the different neighborhoods.

Love,
Ames

ChCh--->Singapore

2010-01-13T04:40:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We made it--we're in Asia!

The flight was loooong, and I'm a bit sweaty and exhausted, but also very excited. We rode the MRT to our hostel near Little India, grabbed quick showers, and then headed out for a light dinner. We went to an outdoor food court and shared some garlic naan, dahl, and an ice-cold beer--all very tasty.

I think I'll need some time to adjust, but I'm feeling very optimistic. Pictures to come in the next couple of days.

Love,
Ames

Oamaru--->ChCh

2010-01-09T20:27:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We've just arrived in Christchurch after a long day of travelling. It's hard to believe that this will be our last stop in NZ--but we're definitely ready to move on!

The penguins were either very far away (Yellow-eyed) or too touristy (Little blues). It was still enjoyable to see them, but I wish there would have been a better way. We watched the Yellow-eyed from a cliff high above the beach, which would have been fine, except it was incredibly windy and we didn't last more than a few penguins' worth of time. What we did see was cool: penguins surfing in on the waves, dodging the seals, and then heading up the beach to their nests.

The Little blue colony has become a bonafide tourist attraction, so we sat with 348 other people to watch them arrive in groups and meander up the shore. I felt like a sardine, and I wasn't impressed with the whole set up. As we went to leave, the penguins that naturally nest outside of the tourist area were being hassled by cars, flashlights, and camera flashes. It all left a very bad taste in my mouth.

Otherwise, Oamaru was a charming little place. The gardens were beautiful, and the Victorian white stone never got old. We caught the bus early this morning and arrived in Sumner (beach suburb of ChCh) this afternoon, and are now scoping out a good pub. I fell in love with the Yeastie Boys' Nerdherder beer in Dunedin, and we just might have found it here as well. We'll see.

I'll probably be posting more pictures tomorrow. Until then--take care!

Love,
Ames

Dunedin--->Oamaru

2010-01-07T17:14:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We're now in the lovely, white-stone town of Oamaru. It's an old historic port from the 1800's that feels like a great mix of American 'Old West' and English village. We had a actual roast in an actual pub last night--which made us very happy campers indeed (literally!). We were even warm last night because we each hired our own duvet to go along with our sleeping bags. It was only about 4 or 5 degrees C.

Dunedin ended up being fine. The beer tour was good fun, and St. Clair (the beach suburb) was beautiful.

We get to go penguin-watching tonight on the beaches here, and I can't wait. We'll see the rare Yellow-eyed and Little Blues. I'm not sure about taking photos, because I don't want to disturb them, but watch this space just in case.

We have two more nights here and then it's back to Christchurch. Only five more sleeps 'til Singapore and the beginning of the Asian leg of our adventure.

Love,
Ames

Milford Sound--->Te Anau--->Dunedin

2010-01-04T14:29:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

Well, we've made it to Dunedin. It's been a hard slog to make it here, but we're starting to relax. I probably got a little too relaxed last night, because apparently I snored loud enough in the dorm that Rory had to wear ear plugs. I never thought a single dorm bed could feel so comfy!

Camping has been a bit difficult, as it's been cold and rainy. We actually had to leave Milford Sound a day earlier than we had planned because of severe thunderstorms, and spent that night in a dorm in Te Anau instead. Te Anau was sort of a disappointment, as there was nothing to do there. We got to see a Takahe, a very endangered bird, but that was about it. Otherwise, we watched TV and did laundry.

We caught an early morning bus to Dunedin yesterday, and then relaxed last night (and snored). Today we're going for a tour of the Speights Brewery, which should be a laugh (there is plenty of beer tasting at the end). Dunedin seems nice enough, just a bit dreary. I'm really looking forward to Thailand.

I have been reading a lot. Shantaram is brilliant, and I recommend it to you all. The only other news I have is that Rory managed to break a sliding door handle by pulling instead of sliding. I'm still giggling about it. Another tidbit is that I was so cold I had to use our picnic blanket to cover myself a couple of nights ago, but when I woke up I realised I used the plastic side down and that my sleeping bag was soaked. I didn't think that out very well...

Love,
Ames

Queenstown--->Milford Sound

2009-12-31T01:09:00.000-08:00

Hello from beautiful Milford Sound!

I love it here: the views, the quiet, the birds, the waterfalls, the cliffs, the dramatic sky, the wilderness--it's one of the most special places I've ever been.

The weather has cooperated thus far. Our cruise this morning was a bit chilly but clear, allowing us to see all the way to the glaciered peaks of the fiords. We also saw dolphins and seals, which was a treat. We also got a great discount on our cruise because we're staying at the Lodge (only $40 instead of $64).

It is a bit cold at night, but we hired some extra blankets from reception, so we'll survive. It's well worth it to experience the Sound overnight, instead of with the tour bus crowd (quite the circus!).

I'm actually sneaking free internet right now. I want to upload more photos, but that might be cheeky. If nothing else, I'll add some once we get to Te Anau. (And yes, I actually took these--the place is fantastically photogenic).

Happy New Year!

Love,
Ames

Queenstown continued

2009-12-28T17:36:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We're nearing the end of our stay in Queenstown. We've had a nice time, but are feeling ready to move on. Milford Sound is our next stop, and we're hoping that the weather forecast improves for our three nights there. Right now they are calling for rain, wind, and cold temps at night (which isn't great when you're in a tent). But we're still giving it a go because we've been told it's one of the things in New Zealand that is unmissable. The weather here is also very changeable, so we're hoping the inclement weather doesn't materialise.

Yesterday we took the gondola to the top of the mountain overlooking Queenstown, and also did a couple of runs on the luge. It was great fun (and pretty much within budget)! As far as other adventure activities, we've given them a miss in favor of a safari in Africa. We also need a new camera too--something we'll purchase in Singapore.

Today we'll play either mini golf or frisbee golf, and then we'll get prepared for our early morning departure. Our bus leaves at 6.50am, so we need to get up especially early (and it might be showery too). It means that we'll probably make some noise at the campsite, but to be honest, I don't mind because we've had to put up with some very inconsiderate people around us. I can't wait for a good night's sleep.

That's all for now. Internet might be slow/expensive down in Fiordland, so I won't promise another blog until Te Anau...but watch this space just in case.

Love,
Ames

Wanaka--->Queenstown

2009-12-26T18:54:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We had our first downer of a day yesterday, but things are looking up again. We put up our tent in the pouring rain, and were soaked doing it, but the sunshine today is drying everything up. Our holiday park is very cramped and noisy, and our tent is pitched in a big carpark. Ah well.

Queenstown is scenic, but 'flash', as they say here in NZ. Everything feels brand new and expensive--sort of what I imagine Aspen feels like, as a similar ski town. We're still enjoying walking around, but finding things to do within budget might be tricky. We're considering doing the gondola and luge tomorrow, and then splurging on some sort of adventure activity the day after. This is all dependant on the ever-changing weather, of course.

The good news is that I saw my fave Shortland Street actor today. This has been the month for seeing famous people!

Love, Ames

Wanaka for Christmas

2009-12-23T13:46:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We've started camping now in the lovely lakeside town of Wanaka. The bus ride was spectacular, and we're comfy in our tent (even though the weather isn't ideal). We're hoping for more sun tomorrow, so that we can have a Christmas BBQ and then some champagne on the beach.

We're thinking of you all--miss you! Happiest of holidays!

Love,

Amy and Rory

Franz Josef--->Wanaka

2009-12-21T20:20:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone,

We've had a lovely stay here in Franz Josef. Yesterday we went out to the glacier face, and today we relaxed in the hot glacier pools. We catch an early bus in the morning to Wanaka for Christmas--we'll blog again from there.

Cheers!

Christchurch--->Greymouth--->Franz Josef

2009-12-20T13:58:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone!

After two very busy days, we're finally relaxing at the beautiful Franz Josef village. We arrived in Christchurch on Saturday evening, left on our train the next morning, and then connected with our bus in Greymouth. We checked in our hostel about 5pm and then wandered around the rest of the evening.

We're still trying to unwind and switch into travel gear. Hopefully, we'll be relaxed and in the backpacker mindset soon enough.

Enjoy the piccies!

Dates (so far)

2009-11-18T20:38:00.000-08:00

I thought it might be useful to provide a brief outline of what we'll be up to.

19 December: Fly to Christchurch
20 December: Train to Greymouth, bus to Franz Josef
23 December: Bus to Wanaka
25 December: Christmas in sunny Wanaka!
26 December: Bus to Queenstown
30 December: Bus to Milford Sound
31 December: New Year in spectacular Milford Sound!
2 January: Bus to Te Anau
4 January: Bus to Dunedin
7 January: Bus to Oamaru
10 January: Bus to Christchurch
13 January: Flight to Singapore
16 January: Flight to Thailand (not confirmed yet)
5 February: Birthday on a Thai island!
24 February: Flight to Cape Town
early April: Flight to UK (not confirmed yet)
late April: Flight to Seattle (not confirmed yet)

We'll keep everyone posted once more dates are confirmed. Cheers!

Welcome to our new, hopefully improved blog

2009-11-18T19:47:00.000-08:00

Hi everyone

Our last blog fizzled, but only because we stayed in NZ so long (too long?). Anyways, we're about to start our journey back around the world, and we needed a new place to share stories, photos, and our current whereabouts.

Please bookmark this new blog--it will be updated regularly from 19 December. That's the day we fly out of Wellington for good and start our 24-day tour of the South Island. Mountains, beaches, glaciers, penguins...it'll all be here.

Love
Ames